Cedar Grades Explained: Clear vs. #2 vs. Select Tight Knot

"Clear," "Select Tight Knot," "#2 Common," "Standard," "Utility" — cedar grading language is inconsistent enough between mills and yards that most buyers just give up and ask "what's your best board?" Here's what these terms actually mean, what you're really paying for the difference, and which grade makes sense for what you're building — using our real shelf prices as of August 2026.

What Do the Grade Names Actually Mean?

Not every mill uses identical names — you'll also see "#3 Common," "Utility," or just "Construction Grade" for the bottom tier, and "Architect" or "A grade" for premium tiers at some yards. The hierarchy is what matters: fewer and smaller knots costs more, more and larger knots costs less. Structural strength for standard framing and fencing use isn't meaningfully different between grades — you're paying for looks, not strength.

What Do You Actually Pay for the Difference?

Grade premiums are easiest to see comparing the same board width. Our standard Western Red Cedar 1x6 fence board (knotty/standard grade) runs $5.78 for a 6-foot length — about $0.96 per linear foot. Step up to our Western Red Cedar 1x6 Nickel Gap Clear Siding at $24.00 for a 12-foot length — $2.00 per linear foot — and the grade premium is visible directly: roughly double, for a clear, tongue-and-groove-milled board versus a standard knotty fence board.

That last comparison is worth calling out: our Yellow Cedar Select Tight Knot 2x6 and standard Western Red Cedar 2x6 currently sell for the exact same price, board for board. When that's the case, the decision isn't really about budget — it's about whether you want the tighter, more uniform knot pattern of Yellow Cedar STK or the classic reddish-brown WRC look, since you're not paying extra either way.

Does Grade Affect Durability?

Not much. Grade is almost entirely about appearance and knot count — it doesn't change a species' natural rot and insect resistance. A knotty, standard-grade Western Red Cedar fence board and a clear-grade Western Red Cedar board weather and resist decay about the same, assuming the same maintenance. What actually changes durability is species, not grade — see our full breakdown in Western Red Cedar vs. Yellow Cedar vs. Sugi. Grade is a cosmetic and consistency decision, not a lifespan decision — for realistic lifespans by application, see How Long Does Cedar Fencing, Decking & Siding Actually Last?.

Which Grade Should You Actually Buy?

• Fencing (standard privacy fence, weathering naturally): Standard/knotty grade. Nobody's inspecting knots on a 6-foot privacy fence from across the yard, and it's the most economical option for a large surface area.
• Decking: Select Tight Knot if you want a cleaner look underfoot and don't mind paying a little more; standard grade is completely functional if budget is the priority.
• Visible siding, feature walls, entryways: Clear grade, or Select Tight Knot as a lower-cost middle ground — this is where grade differences are most visible from a distance.
• Sauna interiors: Clear or Select Tight Knot — knots can occasionally weep sap or pitch under sauna heat, so tighter grades are worth the upgrade indoors.
• Posts and structural framing: Standard grade — knots don't meaningfully affect a post's job of holding the fence up.

A Note on Grade Names Across Yards

If you're pricing lumber at more than one supplier, don't assume "Select" at one yard means the same thing as "Select" at another — there's no single enforced standard the way there is for, say, structural stress grades. When in doubt, ask to see or photograph the actual board, or ask specifically how many knots per linear foot to expect. We're happy to walk through what's on the shelf in person at our Surrey yard.

Shop by Grade

• Nickel Gap Clear Siding (WRC & Sugi)
• Yellow Cedar Select Tight Knot 2x6
• Western Red Cedar 1x6 (standard grade)
• Full fencing collection
• Full decking collection
• Siding & trim collection

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between Clear and Select Tight Knot cedar?

Clear grade has virtually no knots and a smooth, uniform look. Select Tight Knot has small, tight, intact knots — attractive but visibly "real wood" rather than flawless. Clear typically costs more per linear foot.

Is #2 grade cedar lumber weaker than higher grades?

Not meaningfully for typical residential fencing, decking substructure, or framing use. Grade is primarily about knot size and count — appearance — not structural strength.

What grade of cedar should I use for a fence?

Standard/knotty grade is the practical choice for most privacy fences — it's the most economical option and knots aren't a concern at typical viewing distance.

Do all lumber yards use the same grade names?

No. Grade terminology varies between mills and yards, and there's no single enforced standard. When comparing suppliers, ask about knot size and frequency rather than relying on the grade name alone.

Prices current as of publication and subject to change with lumber market conditions. Confirm current pricing and stock before ordering.